I have ALL DATA set up on a computer now and should be able to get any service manual info or schematics for about any make model and year car (1966 - 2008).

If anybody is working on a car and needs some information out of the service manual, let me know and I should be able to help you out. We are still working the bugs out BUT hopefully it should be 100% pretty soon.

If nobody knows what ALL DATA is, it is all service manuals (import and domestic) compressed in to one program. It will also give flat rate time to do a certain repair. The information is the same information found in the factory service manual with schematics, diagrams and pictures.

Where did you get ALL DATA from? My shop teacher has been trying to upgrade us from Shopkey5 for years but he can't find it.

I wouldn't mind having some information on a 1972 302 Ford F-100 motor down the road. Don't need it now, but maybe eventually. I'll let ya know. Thanks!

1972 Ford F100 302 Small Block Engine Build Off - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

=)

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2003 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra
4.6L DOHC V8 - 6 speed manual
520rwhp - 525rwtq at 16psi on stock blower
2002 Ford Mustang GT
4.6L V8 - 5 speed manual

my moms eclipse has rear drums

and they are either rusted on like every other iowa car or im doing it wrong

could your program help with that?

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Cyberwaste

I will look it up when i get home and see what it says. What year is the car?

You need to get out your brake spoons or a pair of common screwdrivers and release the tension on the brakes. There should be a little rubber grommet or two at the bottom of the backing plate that allow for access to the adjustment sprocket. There will be a lever (usually on the opposite side of the sprocket form the backing plate) that keeps the sprocket from turning the wrong way and releasing. You need to disengage that while backing off the sprocket. Make sure you are going in the correct direction or you will tighten the brakes. It is possible that the grommets will not be there and will have allowed the sprocket shaft to rust the threads fast, but this would only have happened if the car had been sitting without movement for well over a year. In which case, the only suggestion I have is to use some PB Blaster on the threads. It literally eats rust and it's easy enough to spray on the threads with the needle. You do not, I repeat DO NOT want to drive the car until the drum is removed and cleaned. The PB Blaster is penetrating lubricant (like WD-40 on roids) and will make the brakes slip. It will clean right off with some rubbing alcohol and a rag. It may also aid in removing the drum if it is getting hung up where it meats the hub. Other than that, the only thing I can suggest is a rubber mallet and some pry bars. This is only if its afu though. If the car has been driven regularly as I suspect, The only thing you should need to do is back off the adjustment on the shoes. I would also, if it's that bad, check the drums for wear. They may need to be replaced as well if they have that much of an edge on them.

Also a little FYI...

I would have the drums both checked by a local machine shop or brake center. If they are out of round, this could be the problem with the rear wheel vibration you said the car has.

thanks i think that i might get it now but i was driving the car today and it feels like the front driver side wheel its also doing it too

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Cyberwaste

how about info on drivetrain on a 1998 Jeep Wangler Sport 4.0l I-6

what info youwant? Serving difs? replacing difs, axles? Let me know what specific items you need and i will try and pull them off and lut them in a PDF

hey can you tell me how much oil my 1990 subaru legacy takes its the 2.2 non tubro or L model

if you can answer this that would me awesome

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Cyberwaste

4.8 qts!

I need teardown and repair procedures for a C-4 trans. Never messed with one before, cant say Im lookind forward to it. Thanks! If you can help with that, tell House to buy lunch! Ill buy, House can pay!

sweet thanks

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Cyberwaste