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04-24-2009, 03:32 PM
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Plastic Paint
so i traded my mom the honda for the eclipse and i want it to look better so i want to paint the front bumper white like the rest of the car....
and its made from abs plastic i think and i want to try and paint it but i not 100% sure how to do it or the paint to use...
so do you have any ideas?
or tips?
or anything
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Cyberwaste
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04-24-2009, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberwaste
so i traded my mom the honda for the eclipse and i want it to look better so i want to paint the front bumper white like the rest of the car....
and its made from abs plastic i think and i want to try and paint it but i not 100% sure how to do it or the paint to use...
so do you have any ideas?
or tips?
or anything
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Go to your local auto store that sells automotive paint and paint it. Use a base clear system and you can not screw it up. They sell a flex additive you put in it when paining bumpers.
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04-24-2009, 08:07 PM
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This all depends on what your budget is and how good you want it to look. Either way, I would remove it for the painting process. If you have a compressor and gun and know how to follow directions, then you can paint it that way. If you don't have these tools, you can 1) invest in them (not recommended if you are not painting often enough to justify the cost) or 2) find the closest possible color in an aerosol can for painting plastics (already has the elastomer embedded in the paint), which you can find @ the auto parts stores like Advance, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. If you already have a gun/compressor setup, or are thinking of investing, I would not be buying paint for it at the auto parts store. You need to find the paint code (usually obtained from the dealership via VIN) and go to your local automotive paint supplier (look in the phone book). If you are going to invest in painting equipment, There are a few thinks you should know. 1) You're looking for a HVLP gun (high pressure low volume). I prefer gravity feed because they don't waste as much paint, are better balanced (in my opinion) and easier to clean. However, if you are to paint the underside of something, you will need a siphon gun because the gravity feed will not load the paint when the gun is upside down. A descent gravity fed HVLP gun can be had for $40 bucks @ Harbor Freight and stores of the like. Regardless of which gun you choose, you should get with stainless steel internals so you can shoot whatever type of paint you want without worrys of rust. You will also need an air drying manifold to run the air through as well as a dessicant filter. If the air coming through the line is wet, the paint will come through clumpy and all your prep work will be lost. The same can be said of dirt. I use the in-line dessicant filters that run between $5-10 dollars. When the beads change color, change the filter. I bought a manifold for $20 that handles air drying And also allows me to regulate air pressure in the line. You'll need that regulator too as you need to keep the pressure coming through the gun at 40-45 psi. You can use one of those little 125 psi 2.5 gallon compressors, but you'll have to constantly monitor your usage as you don't want to let the pressure get too low. I suggest at least 10-15 gallon @ 150 psi. You may also want to get a small inline pressure gauge to put on the gun itself as you will lose pressure in the line after the regulator. I use an inline gauge on my gun to determine the pressure being used instead of the one on the regulator Because I may have to use up to 45-50 feet of hose to get from compressor to the work. In a 15 ft hose the loss is minimal.
As for the paint itself, I assume that the bumper is not already painted. In this case, make sure it is reasonably smooth and clean it well with low lint or lint free cloth and 90% isopropyl alcohol. As for primers, I personally like using epoxies, but if you you do make sure that you are adding the correct amount of elastomer. Otherwise you may form cracks when you scrape speed bumps or whatever. It does not have to be self etching primer. You're not painting metal. Other that that, I would use polyuerethane basecoat as it is usually already going to give you the flexibility that you're going to need for an impact prone areas. Unless you're looking to have a show car, I would not even bother with a clearcoat. Just get a high gloss topcoat and wax it. No body will know the difference. As I said before, I suggest taking the bumper off before the prep and paint process as this will save you hassle and time during the sanding, cleaning and masking process. Any questions you may have about what paint to use and how to mix can be answered by the guys at the paint shop. Mixing is different depending on temperature and humidity.
The only other thing is that if you paint with a compressor and gun, a lot of those paints contain isocyanates which are extremely dangerous. You will need to paint in a well ventilated but low dust area. You will also need at least a half face respirator with organic vapor cartridges. Make sure that the respirator fits properly. You will know when you are shooting paint as you can hardly smell the paint at all if it fits. Without seeing your face I don't know what size you are, But most people wear a medium mask. The guys at the paint shop should be able to help you with that. You also need to shave where the mask is going to be to get a seal. I have a 5-inch goatee and it all fits inside the mask. You just have to worry about where the mask touches your face.
Oh, if the bumper is already painted, the above mentioned preparation steps should be preceded by scuffing the surface with with 280-300 grit sand paper. If the existing paint is already cracked, Strip it all off and start from scratch as if it never had any to start with. Hope this helps. If you have anymore questions, I shall help where I can.
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04-24-2009, 08:45 PM
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Make sure you get the correct paint color. I've found white one of the hardest to match. You wouldn't believe how many shades of white there are on cars until you try to match it.

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04-24-2009, 10:21 PM
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Look under the hood and get the color code for the car and match it to that. Some paint shops can mix you some aerosol spray cans of paint that you could use if you are careful. The best way is to use a compressor and gun, then baking the paint if you have the means. Baking isn't necessary but it'll help bond the paint to the body so it doesn't peel off.
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04-24-2009, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesarius
Baking isn't necessary but it'll help bond the paint to the body so it doesn't peel off.
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Actually, that's not completely true. Yes, it's not necessary, but that's not the function. All baking does is dry the paint faster. It'll cure better if it dries on its own. If you're not careful with baking (or at least paying attention) you run the risk of burning the paint. Paint it in the afternoon and let it sit over night, so long as the atmosphere temperature is better than 68*F, otherwise the paint won't dry (at least not very quickly). That's if you spray it with air. That's why it's better to paint during the summer, unless your garage (or shop) is heated, then you can just keep the temperature up over night (and don't let your cat or kid play in the shop  ). However, if you rattle can it, it should be dry in an hour or two if you let it sit.
btw - the paint code in on the driver's door jamb on Mitsubishis (and all other Daimler brands, except Mercedes, which is in the trunk)...every company sticks it in different locations (ex: with GMs it's in the glove box on the big sticker on the inside of the door, Ford's is on the driver's door itself, Audi's is under the spare tire in the trunk, etc)
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04-26-2009, 12:06 PM
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wow thanks everyone
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Cyberwaste
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07-13-2011, 09:31 AM
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There are specific ways of preparing plastic for painting and the most important thing to remember is that the paint should be mixed in the correct ratios so that it would not break. Cutting corners should also be avoided because this leads to paint failure. On the contrary, if you want it to last for a short period of time, then cutting corners is alright. If the plastic is bare, it would need some kind of plastic adhesion promoter and flexible plastic parts require a flex addictive.
Painting plastic is almost an art and it has to be done methodically and even slight deviances may cause paint failure.
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09-28-2011, 02:29 AM
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Plastic painting is safe in Sun rays??? Actually i got my car damage from the front so someone suggest to me that can prefer Plastic painting to hide damaged area.
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12-26-2011, 04:46 AM
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Good sharing here....I am providing best services for plastic paint...get some offer for this coming new year.
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